"I am confident she is Scorpio!" I said exuberantly, “I think so too”
replied my friend confidently. We hailed the waitress at “Da O Batti”
restaurant: "Ada, what is the sign of the manager of the place?”, “One
moment please, I will ask Mario” squeaked her voice while she evaporated
among the smoulders escaping from the kitchen. Moments and she returned
bringing the good tidings:" Scorpio”. My friend smirked: “Again we are
right”.
We made the acquaintance of Da O Batti years ago, and there we found the magnificent Scampi of Portofino ". Patrizia was the owner of a gallery there and she was the one who guided us to Batti. The “Scampi” experience is something we kept on remembering for months to come.
We made the acquaintance of Da O Batti years ago, and there we found the magnificent Scampi of Portofino ". Patrizia was the owner of a gallery there and she was the one who guided us to Batti. The “Scampi” experience is something we kept on remembering for months to come.
Chianti wine: “Whomever samples Chianti wine shall come back to
Chianti”, Portofino scampi: “Ditto!”; we were back to Portofino in quest
of our lost stray. Alas, Patrizia didn’t carry good news for us
narrating that Mario the brilliant chef had left the restaurant taking
the magic scampi formula with him, Mario had opened a new restaurant;
the "Pado”. “The owner of Da O Batti had an accident which left him
incapacitated" Patrizia cawed "and she (The Missus) took over and moved
heaven and earth, sent forth and kept back; almost lurching the place
into a Trojan warzone. Soon the hassle stretched to Mario erupting into a
conflict with Madam. Mario chose safety and resigned, and now he has an
independent restaurant bearing the name "Pado".
On December 20th 2013 we were at Pado having dinner chit chatting with
Ada and Idris: the waiter recognized and greeted us. That night he had
responded to Mario’s request to lend a hand since many customers had
arrived; a number far more than expected. Idris was a polite Moroccan
young man still working at Batti, he whispered: “I came without
notifying Madam, if she knew it would be my murky end”, he said that
with a smile “veneering his visage”. Idris was asking customers spread
over the tables not to disclose his attending to Madam since the
customers were from the town itself. Idris added: “The crippled man is
Gemini: kind hearted but his wife is a tyrant. I was at their home this
morning and they were fighting and shouting as usual so I left not
looking over my shoulder”. It was then that I said to my friend: “I am
positive that she is Scorpio!”. “Definitely she is!” he replied.
Shrimp pickled with Tropea onions is a very simple dish but it was
definitely made on Mount Olympus for the gods of Olympuss under the
auspices of Mario and offered with tears of Franciacort, zucchini omelet
and marvelous clamps. But the magic rests in the recipe, “La ricetta di
Mario” for scampi is what makes you sip even its juices. When “The
Dish” is served, the customers would turn into an Orchestra of austere
players in praise of Mario. Mario would highly recommend “Cervaro Della
Sala” the pride of Antinori winery: an impenetrable fortress visited by
wine pilgrims and its nights are kept in the merry company of the
affable amusing followers of Bacchus.
I remember what Patrizia said: “The people of Portofino attempted to
decipher “Scampi ricetta di Mario” but their efforts “have gone up in
smoke” as they say”. We discreetly interrogated Ada about the secret of
the amazing Tropea tinted shrimp, she whispered: “I once glimpsed Mario
slicing the shrimp and marinating it in wine for a whole night and…”;
she didn’t finish because she heard Mario walking out of the Kitchen,
safety was what she chose since she knew that breaching the secrecy of
Mario’s “ricetta” is a matter of life and death. We headed back with
Roberto, a continuously laughing Pisces. He giggled as usual and said
with a gruff voice coming from the darkness of a deep well: “How was
dinner?” we answered: “Great”. “Did you have Scampi?” he wondered, We
Italianized: “Molto bene”. Roberto, a fifty-two years old, looked
younger than his age so it was our turn to ask. He stated: “Its
Portofino fair weather”.
I scenically commented: “or the credit goes to the wife”. He dismissed the notion immediately: “Anyone but her, she is the cause of my misery my friend”, he digressed saying: “As for the Scampi, I am the son of Portofino and the folks here tried for a long time to crack the puzzle of Mario’s scampi and failed big time”, he said it with an ocean-deep chuckle.
I scenically commented: “or the credit goes to the wife”. He dismissed the notion immediately: “Anyone but her, she is the cause of my misery my friend”, he digressed saying: “As for the Scampi, I am the son of Portofino and the folks here tried for a long time to crack the puzzle of Mario’s scampi and failed big time”, he said it with an ocean-deep chuckle.
At the dinners we spent at Pado, courtesy of Mario, I noticed the
scarce number of customers. I assumed that winter was standing between
the master and his congregation but I came to learn one night from
Giuliano, owner of Balin Cuisine in Sestri Levante: “Italians are opting
for cheaper meals mimicking Portofino’s “hustle and bustle” summer
tourists. Restaurants offering fresh meals became a rarity, even a few
fishermen would endure the adversity of fishing.” He added: “In Sestre
Levante, only one fisherman provides fresh supplies for merely two out
the jungle of restaurants in town”.
During my morning strolls where I traversed tens of kilometers from
Rapallo to Portofino – which I consider to be one of the most beautiful
routes I have ever set foot on – I caught sight of Mario several times
standing as a lion (he is Leo by the way) at the doors of Pado in Santa
Margherita Ligure waiting in vain for customers to drop by but the folks
were busy gobbling cheese Mac’s and Burger Kings’.
I used to wave hello from a distance on my way to Portofino or heading back to Rapallo and Mario still stood there: a roman centurion in a no-war era. Abu Al Tayyib Al Mutanabbi – a great Arab poet if not the greatest – once complained from the recession in the “poetry market” stating: “tainted words made being deaf an acclaimed virtue”.
I used to wave hello from a distance on my way to Portofino or heading back to Rapallo and Mario still stood there: a roman centurion in a no-war era. Abu Al Tayyib Al Mutanabbi – a great Arab poet if not the greatest – once complained from the recession in the “poetry market” stating: “tainted words made being deaf an acclaimed virtue”.
Thus I interpreted Mario’s circumstances so I asked him: “Is food
ruined my friend?”, the heartbroken reply came: “No it wasn’t,
especially in my restaurant but the sense of taste in our times has
being tainted, the bons vivants are opting to fast”.
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